The Tiksi Trip: day 3

Batagay and Verkhoyansky Cold Pole

March 8, 2018
I don't get enough sleep, I wake up at dawn and rush forward to get to Batagay as soon as I can and get good rest.
We get to the village before noon. Kesha invited us for breakfast, where we were treated to some local dishes.

People in the north eat a lot of fatty and meaty products. This gives them energy and warmth to stay warm in Winter. Europeans are not coping well with these kind of conditions.

My only rule is to eat everything that comes my way, as long as it gives me strength to keep going.

So I don't even ask about the food that is on the table, I'm just sitting there chewing, no questions asked. I remember there being black pudding and omul stroganina (a kind of sashimi).
After lunch I go to Verkhoyansk, to the famous Cold Pole. The place with officially registered lowest temperature on the continent - 67.7 C. There's also Oimyakon with 67.8, I believe.

There's a huge stele in the form of mammoth's tusks and a museum with only 10 visitors per Winter.
In the museum I encounter Tadeusz from France, who speaks good Russian. It's a kind of adventure for him – every year for a month he comes to the Russian north.

Today he's going to Ust-Kuyga to visit his friend whom he had met in Yakutsk the year before.

I'm going the same way, do I invite him to come along.
After museum we go back to Batagay to check on the car. For the last 100 km I had a kind of tumble in the left part. A road like this has no mercy, even for a Land Cruiser.

I go under, I suspect it's the left CV joint. The lubricant is being pushed from under the dust cap.

Yes, the same Ravenol lubricant, which I changed before going on the trip. I guess I didn't do a really good job. I would be ok except I don't have any grease on me and it's impossible to find it here.

I get some kind of collar and put it over the dust cap. That's all I can do for now. There's no car service here, and no store.

Again I make the decision to keep going. Nothing major, the show must go on. I have to make the dust cap leakproof, so that the gearing doesn't get any more screwed up.
Jumping ahead I will say that the collar got unwrapped and I couldn't do anything about the leak. So I got to Tiksi like that and went back to Yakutsk. There I put a new collar and found out that the dust cap is ok and there was enough grease.

Now when I'm back in Chelyabinsk, I haven't even looked there since everything works just fine.

The tumble came from the ripped rubbers on the stabilizer's links.

I'm sorry for the terminology, the drivers will know what I'm talking about.

Later that day I check in a hotel where I meet a group of Chinese guys. They have two Toyotas and are going to Tiksi as well. It's a good thing, so we decide to go together.
Before going to bed I accidentally locked the car doors.
I got nervous. I didn't want to get stuck here, but luckily I didn't have to break the windows, since the trunk stayed open. I worried for nothing.

Going to bed. The last two days have exhausted me, and there's so much more waiting ahead.

P.S. Please share to find out what happens next :)
A thank you to my friends, subscribers and partners:
— oils and lubricants by ravenol.su
— winter tires by nokiantyres.ru
— compressors by berkut-compressor.ru
— car service and preparation by uazato.ru
— winter equipment by baskcompany.ru
— lights by armytek.ru
— satellite communication by mvstelecom.ru
Share the story